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BEST BOOKS ON BELIZE
(AND SOME YOU SHOULD AVOID)
By LAN SLUDER
Sometimes I think there are more guidebooks to
Belize than are tourists to this little country. At
one time, it was difficult to find anything about
Belize; now, the Belize information market is
segmented with dozens of guides, covering every
niche from diving to birding to ecotouring to Maya
tripping.
The good news is that most of the guides are first-
rate. Paul Glassman, author of five pioneering
guides to Central America including Belize Guide
points out that today's guidebooks are far superior
to those available even just a few years ago: "If
you can find a guidebook in the library from 20
years back, you'll find it woefully inadequate by
today's standards -- basic maps, a quick once-over
on food, recommendations that you take a tour rather
than giving instructions for doing it on your own."
Ironically -- see the review of the newly "updated"
edition of Glassman's guide below -- the new Belize
Guide, in its present form, and through no fault of
Glassman himself, is a sadly deficient version of
the earlier editions.
Here, to help you choose the guide or guides that
are best for you, is a quick review of some of the
best books on Belize. Volumes of particular value
to those with an interest in Belize have been
awarded the "Recommended by Belize First" seal. In
the case of guidebooks, timeliness is vital, and an
otherwise top guide may not earn the recommendation
due to lack of recent update.
Note my biases: I prefer travel books that are
written by a single author, rather than by a
committee of writers and editors. I value books with
the latest information and good maps. I don't care
much whether there are pretty photos or not,
although I recognize that many readers do. A good
index (rare in travel books) is a plus.
Other books on Belize of special note are also
listed here. Unless otherwise indicated, all
editions are paperback.
BELIZE GUIDEBOOKS
Belize Handbook, by Chicki Mallan. ISBN 1-56691-
030-7. Moon Publications, 3rd ed., 1995. 364 pp.
US$15.95. Every Moon guide I've ever used has been
wonderful, with solid research, readable design,
good maps, and sensible views on environmental
issues. This revised edition of the Belize Handbook
is no exception. It's reliable, well-organized,
easy to use, and packed with good ideas on enjoying
Belize to the fullest. Chicki Mallan was visiting
Belize before many of us had ever heard of the
place, and she knows her stuff. The photos, mostly
by Oz Mallan, provide a good, ground-level feel for
the country and its people. Update research for the
third edition was done by Phil Lanier (who has
contributed several pieces to BELIZE FIRST).
Although Belize is changing so fast in some places
that no guidebook can keep up, in general this Moon
guide does a good job on giving you the latest poop.
I especially like the two separate indexes for
hotels and restaurants, in addition to the main
index. Maps? There are 45 excellent ones. If
you're going to Belize, you need this guide.
Period.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Belize A Natural Destination, by Richard Mahler and
Steele Wotkyns. ISBN 1-56261-221-2. John Muir
Publications, 3rd. ed., 1995. 326 pp., US$16.95.
Those who give a damn about the real Belize, the
natural Belize, will find this ecoguide inspiring
and invaluable. It covers just about everything
you'll want to do and see in Belize -- Mayan sites,
jungle trips, fishing, diving, kayaking, biking.
True, A Natural Destination doesn't provide some of
the nitty-gritty details of restaurants and hotels
that regular guidebooks do. But one of the best
things about it is the last 40 or so pages -- this
"Inside Belize" section provides a surprising amount
of hard information on Belize, including scores of
information sources on Belize that many other guides
just don't cover. A negative for me is the book's
traditional design, without many boxes and
breakouts. It's just not as accessible as, say,
Moon's Belize Handbook, but the photos, by Kevin
Schafer, are an asset. Co-author Rich Mahler has
contributed to BELIZE FIRST, and his article on Cayo
appears in this issue of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
The New Key to Belize, by Stacy Ritz. ISBN 1-56975-
034-3. Ulysses Press, 2nd ed., 1995, 209 pp.
US$14.95. I'm a Stacy Ritz fan, more so than ever
since I saw her Hidden Carolinas, which is one of
the best guides to my home state of North Carolina
and to South Carolina. I was less than impressed
with New Key to Belize when it first came out in
1994, especially in comparison with the benchmark
New Key to Costa Rica. But having used the original
edition, I now find Ritz's judgments to be sound and
insightful. The new 2nd edition has been sensibly
updated and includes hotels and listings that some
of the other new guides have missed. In fact, as of
now this may be the most up-to-date guidebook on the
market. Color photos by Doug Perrine; 14 maps but
in need of more and better ones. "Green ratings"
for environmental efforts go to 25 resorts.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry S. Pariser.
ISBN 1-55650-647-3. Hunter Publishing, 3rd. ed.,
1995, 366 pp. US$14.95. This is one of the most
comprehensive and useful guides to Belize. It ranks
with the Moon Belize Handbook and the New Key to
Belize as a good traveling companion, and, like
Belize, A Natural Destination, and the similarly
named Adventuring in Belize, it takes an
ecologically aware approach. Very detailed. Color
photos; 38 maps. Harry Pariser's articles on
Belize have appeared in past issues of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Adventuring in Belize, by Eric Hoffman. ISBN 0-
87156-592-7. Sierra Club Books, 1994, 371 pp.
US$15. A recent traveler to Belize told me he used
several guides to the country, but he liked this one
the best. Author Hoffman obviously knows a great
deal about Belize and has a refreshing honesty when,
for example, he admits to a lack of knowledge about
Belize City restaurants resident Meb Cutlack to
assess them. Still, the guide is now getting long
in the tooth in fast-changing Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Insight Guides Belize. Tony Perrottet, ed. ISBN 0-
395-71053-7. Houghton Mifflin, 1995, 332 pp.
US$21.95. Everyone has such wonderful things to say
about the Insight series that it's almost heresy to
express less than absolute awe for these lavishly
illustrated and beautifully printed volumes. I
wonder, though, if anyone actually reads one of
these guides? The quality of the reportage
certainly varies. In the case of the Belize volume,
which has about a dozen different contributors, it
seems to me that those who know Belize aren't
especially good writers, and the good writers don't
know that much about Belize. The photographs,
mostly by U.S.-expat and Dangriga resident Tony
Rath, are amazing, surely the best collection of
Belize photos ever put together in one place. They
alone are worth the price of the book.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Guide to Belize, by Alex Bradbury. ISBN 1-56440-
532-X. Globe Pequot Press, 1994, 326 pp. US$15.95.
Bradbury, both a professional diver and a biologist,
brings a unique perspective to Belize travel
journalism. I'd love to see a complete update of
this well-done guide, because much of the practical
detail on hotels, restaurants, and prices is now
yesterday's news. Alex Bradbury contributed an
article on Ambergris Caye to Vol. II, No. 4 of
BELIZE FIRST.
Belize Guide, by Paul Glassman, updated by Ron
Charles. ISBN 1-883323-25-8. Open Road Publishing,
7th ed., 1996, 332 pp., US$14.95. Paul Glassman is
one of the best travel writers covering Belize and
the region. He has contributed to BELIZE FIRST.
But, in a dispute over royalties and other matters,
the new edition of the classic Belize Guide, while
showing a Glassman copyright, was not updated by
him. Glassman says: "I did not have anything to
do with the so-called 1996 update of Belize Guide,
and the publisher has paid no royalties on it. I
do not endorse it as being accurate or up-to-date."
Myself, I find the updating spotty at best. For
example, in the Placencia section, it leaves out
most of the new places that have opened in the past
year or two, and in the Mountain Pine Ridge such new
spots as Five Sisters Lodge. A sidebar on the
British Defence Forces is out of date,
including a mention of the closed Adventure Inn in
Consejo. For a book that claims to be copyrighted
in 1996, this is inexcusable. The new chapter on
"Most Memorable Hotels and Inns" reads like
advertorial to me. For example, the section on
Maruba Resort goes on for a page a half piling
adjective upon adjective: "Maruba is one of the
most exotic properties anywhere in the world! The
Nicholsons have spent the past 9 years creating this
deluxe jungle resort .... you can't help but feel
you have finally found paradise the moment you
arrive here....The independent cabanas are the
perfect choice for romantic honeymooners, especially
the magic Chapel Room ... Guests are truly pampered
with personalized service offered by the friendliest
staff in Belize... Maruba gets my highest
recommendation, and it should not be missed." The
eight "most memorable" in Belize are, according to
the non-Glassman chapter (it is not made clear who
the "I" is who does these glowing recommendations):
Ramada Royal Reef, Radisson Fort George, Serenity,
Rum Point, Captain Morgan's, Duplooy's, Hidden
Valley Inn, and Maruba. Although some of these are
fine places, to leave out such truly memorable
lodges as Chan Chich, Blancaneaux, Lamanai Lodge,
and Chaa Creek shows, to put the most charitable
spin on it, ignorance of what many Belize travelers
want. This new edition is NOT recommended by BELIZE
FIRST.
MULTI-COUNTRY GUIDEBOOKS
Many guides cover several or even all countries in
the region. These can be of value if you are
traveling to more than one country. The
disadvantage is that, in most cases, coverage of any
one country -- specifically of Belize, which tends
to get short shrift in regional guidebooks -- is
less comprehensive than the single-country guides.
Mexico & Central America Handbook. Ben Box, editor.
Passport Books, 6th ed., 1995. 927 pp. US$21.95.
This and the South America Passport guides are
almost universally recommended by seasoned travelers
for those who are visited several countries. And no
wonder. They pack tons of detailed information in
hundreds of pages of tiny type on thin paper. The
47-page Belize section, while generally on target,
is not quite as up-to-date as it could be,
especially on Placencia and Cayo. Recommended if
you are traveling widely in the region and wish to
take only one or two general guides.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Guatemala, Belize & Yucatç n, La Ruta Maya, by Tom
Brosnahan. ISBN 0-86442-220-2. Lonely Planet,
1994, 2nd. ed., 508 pp. US$16.95. Meticulously
researched, authoritatively written guide to the
main Maya sites in the region. Good hotel,
restaurant and other sightseeing information,
although with changes since late 1993 and early 1994
not included it's getting to be time for an update.
Tom Brosnahan is one of the world's most experienced
travel writers, having penned more than two dozen
guidebooks. A piece by him appeared in the Vol. II,
No. 3 edition of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Rough Guide to Guatemala & Belize, by Mark Whatmore
and Peter Eltringham. Rough Guides, 2nd ed., 1993
(3rd ed., 1996, due out shortly). 512 pp.
US$14.95. The new 3rd edition, although not
available for review at the time this issue of
BELIZE FIRST went to press, is expected to follow
the path of excellence of the previous two editions.
Rough Guides are known for their exacting research,
and they often are the favorites of travel writers.
The Rough Guide to Guatemala & Belize is, in a word,
terrific, and I only wish the entire volume were
devoted to Belize. The new 3rd edition will also
cover the Honduras Bay Islands. An update on
Placencia co-authored by Peter Eltringham is in this
issue of BELIZE FIRST.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Adventuring in Central America, by David Rains
Wallace. ISBN 0-87156-473-4. Sierra Club, 1995.
445 pp. US$16. This volume owes it existence to
the Paseo Pantera, created by two conservation
organizations, the Wildlife Conservation Society and
the Caribbean Conservation Corporation, with some
funding by the U.S. Agency for International
Development. The Path of the Panther is devoted to
"restoring the land bridge" in Central America, in
part by supporting nature tourism and helping
national parks in the region. Although the goals of
Paseo Pantera are laudable, and Wallace is a
knowledgeable writer, like so many worthy efforts
this one turns out to heavy going for the typical
reader. The book design is stultifying, and the
text at times runs on and on. C'mon, Sierra Club,
put a little pizzaz in your Panther!
Berkeley Guides Central America. ISBN 0-679-02979-
6. Fodor's Travel Publications, 2nd ed. , 1996.
501 pp. US$18.95. Written by and for a young
audience, this is the kind of guide that calls
Tony's in Corozal Town "ritzy" and Dangriga the
"New Jack City of Belize." The 58 pages devoted to
Belize offer some good information, but they miss a
lot, especially for the older or middle-class
traveler. Overpriced, considering what you get.
Frommer's Costa Rica, Guatemala & Belize on $35 a
Day, by Karl Samson with Jane Aukshunas. Macmillan
Travel, 3rd ed., 1995. 372 pp. US$15.95.
Frommer's got its start as a budget travel guide,
and although most of its guides now cover all levels
of travel, the Costa Rica, Guatemala and Belize
volume, now co-authored by Karl Samson's wife, Jane
Aukshunas, has refocused on budget travel. I've
used previous editions of this guide in Belize and
Costa Rica, and I appreciate its organization and
easy-to-out layout. The 70 pages on Belize provide
generally reliable and accurate info, but for most
Belize travelers, even budget ones, this is just not
enough. No photos, very limited maps.
The Maya Road, by Jim Conrad. ISBN 1-55650-522-1.
Hunter Publishing, 1992, 274 pp. US$15.95.
Intelligent guide to Mayan sites in Belize,
Guatemala, and Eastern Mexico, although it is now
somewhat out-of-date on practical details such as
access to Caracol.
OTHER BOOKS ABOUT BELIZE AND THE REGION
Belize Retirement Guide, by Bill and Claire Gray.
ISBN 1-880862-46-8. Preview Publishing, 3rd. ed.,
1995. 139 pp. US$19.95. This book talks turkey
on a subject a lot of folks want to know about: Is
Belize a good place to retire? The answer,
according to the authors (who live much of the year
in Corozal) is Yes. They say you can "live in a
tropical paradise on your Social Security check
alone." You can digest Belize Retirement Guide in
one sitting, and you may still be hungry for more
details, but one thing is clear: If you're thinking
about Belize for relocation or retirement, this book
is a necessary starting point, with down-to-earth,
practical advice by people who have done it
themselves. The new 3rd edition (the original
edition came out in 1990) is much improved, with
color photos and a good deal of new or updated
information.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Warlords and Maize Men, a Guide to the Maya Sites of
Belize, by Byron Foster, ed. ISBN 968-6233-06-7.
Cubola Productions, 2nd ed., 1992, 82 pp. US$10.
This was the first popular guide to 15 important
Maya sites in Belize. It's one of a series of
interesting volumes, both non-fiction and fiction,
published by Cubola in Benque Viejo del Carmen,
Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
The Best Mexican & Central American Travel Tips, by
John Whitman. ISBN 0-06-273268-4. HarperPerennial,
1994. 356 pp. US$15. The author attempts to
duplicate the success of his Best European Travel
Tips, which has sold 250,000 copies since 1981 with
this compendium of travel tips, both basic ("never
sleep under a coconut palm") and advanced ("if you
find yourself surrounded by jellyfish, dive down and
try to swim under them.") Most of the tips are the
kinds of things travelers pick up their own, from
trial and error and talking with other travelers.
The vast majority of the tips relate to culture and
language of the Spanish-speaking countries in the
region, and there are only a few pages of
information specifically about Belize. This book
may be useful for the novice traveler visiting
Mexico and a number of Central American countries,
it is of very limited value to Belize travelers.
Sastun, My Apprenticeship with a Maya Healer, by
Rosita Arvigo with Nadine Epstein. ISBN 0-06-
250255-7 HarperSanFrancisco, 1994. 190 pp. US$22
cloth. The story of U.S. herbologist Rosita
Arvigo's apprenticeship to the late Don Elijio
Panti, renowned Mayan healer. Fascinating!
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
The Maya, by Michael D. Coe. ISBN 0-500-27716-8.
Thames and Hudson, 5th ed., 1993. 224 pp.
US$14.95. Yale professor Michael Coe is one of the
giant figures in Mayan studies. If you want a
scholarly but readable short overview of the Maya
civilization, this is a good choice. However, it is
extremely limited in its Belize references. In the
text and in the many fine illustrations there are
only a few mentions of Belize. The focus is mostly
on Mexico and Guatemala.
"Hey, Dad, This is Belize" by Emory King. Tropical
Press, 4th printing, 1994. Originally published in
the Belize Times in the 1970s, these sketches, most
of them in a light vein by Belize's most famous
expat, now are a window on a quieter time in Belize
City and the country.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Diving and Snorkeling Guide to Belize, by Franz O.
Meyer. ISBN 1-55992-033-5. Pisces Books, 1990, 96
pp. US$11.95. Overview of dive and snorkel sites
in Belize. Lots of color photos, some maps.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Inside Belize, by Tom Barry. ISBN 0-911213-39-2.
Inter-Hemispheric Education Resource Center, 1992,
193 pp. US$10.95. Good general overview of Belize
history, society, economy, politics, and education.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
Belize, a Guide to Business Investment and
Retirement, by George W. Rea. The Business Company,
1995, 99 pp. US$29.95. Contains basic information
on living in and doing business in Belize. Forms,
contact names.
MAPS
Driver's Guide to Beautiful Belize, by Emory King.
Tropical Books. Updated annually. US$12. This
mile-by-mile guide is a must if you're driving in
Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
International Travel Map to Belize. ISBN 0-921463-
24-3. ITMB Publishing, 3rd edition, 1995. US$7.95.
This 1:350,000-scale map is the best general map of
Belize.
RECOMMENDED BY BELIZE FIRST MAGAZINE
--------------------------------------------------
COMPARING THE GUIDEBOOKS:
WHAT EIGHT GUIDES RECOMMEND
IN CONSEJO AND SEINE BIGHT
Comparing what different guidebooks recommend at the
same destination can be an eye-opener. Here are
hotel recommendations by eight guidebooks in two
areas, Placencia/Seine Bight and Corozal
Town/Consejo. We've focused on these two areas
because they are slightly off-the-beaten-track
destinations and both have had some recent changes
in hotels. The date shown is the copyright date,
which may not be the date the research for the book
was done. Recommendations shown are in the order
they appear in the guides, and are in various price
ranges. At the end of each section are current
recommendations in all prices ranges by BELIZE
FIRST.
Placencia/Seine Bight
Belize Handbook, by Chicki Mallan, with new
research by Phil Lanier, 1995: Singing Sands, Blue
Crab Resort, Nautical Inn, Auntie Chigi's Place,
Jamie's Rooms, Lucille's Rooms, Sunrider Guest
House, Traveler's Inn, Julia's, D&L Resort, Conrad &
Lydia's Rooms, Paradise Vacation Resort, Deb &
Dave's Last Resort, Harry's Rentals, Sonny's,
Tradewinds, Sea Spray, Westwind, Serenity, Rum
Point, Kitty's, Turtle Inn, Mother Ocean's Tropic
Hotel, Village Inn.
New Key to Belize, by Stacy Ritz, 1996: Ranguana
Lodge, Sonny's, Deb & Dave's Last Resort, Barracuda
and Jaguar Inn, Kitty's, Rum Point Inn, Nautical
Inn, French Quarter Belize, Singing Sands Inn.
Belize Guide, (originally by Paul Glassman but
updated by Ron Charles --"I did not have anything to
do with the so-called 1996 update of Belize Guide,"
says Glassman), 1996: Rum Point Inn, Serenity
Resort, Nautical Inn, Kitty's, Westwinds, Turtle
Inn, Mother Ocean's, Sonny's, Trade Winds, Ranguana
Lodge, Ran's, Hotel Hello, Seaspray, Lucille's, Miss
Lydia's, Paradise Vacation Hotel.
Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry Pariser, 1995:
Ranguana Lodge, Sonny's, Paradise Vacation Resort,
Tradewinds, Village Inn, Cove Resort (now Mother
Ocean's), Turtle Inn, Kitty's, Serenity Resort, Rum
Point Inn, Nautical Inn, Blue Crab Resort, Singing
Sands.
Adventuring in Belize, by Eric Hoffman, 1994: Rum
Point Inn, Kitty's Place, Turtle Inn, Paradise
Vacation Hotel, Sonny's, Tradewinds.
Adventuring in Central America, by David Rains
Wallace, 1995: Paradise Vacation Hotel. None in
Seine Bight.
Berkeley Guides Central America, 1996: Conrad and
Lydia's Rooms, Paradise Vacation Resort, Dr. Ted.
None in Seine Bight.
Frommer's Costa Rica, Guatemala & Belize on $35 a
Day, by Karl Samson with Jane Aukshunas, 1995:
Paradise Vacation Hotel, Seaspray, Village Inn,
Ranguana Lodge, Sonny's, Ranguana Reef Resort. None
in Seine Bight.
BELIZE FIRST Recommendations: Kitty's, Turtle Inn,
Rum Point Inn, Nautical Inn, French Quarter Belize,
Green Parrot, Seine Bight Hotel, Singing Sands,
Tradewinds, Deb & Dave's Last Resort, Coconut
Cottage, Barracuda and Jaguar Inn, Sea Spray,
Westwind, Ranguana Lodge, Ranguana Reef Resort,
Julia's, Conrad & Lydia's Rooms.
Corozal Town/Consejo
Belize Handbook, by Chicki Mallan, with new
research by Phil Lanier, 1995: Tony's, Caribbean
Village, Hotel Maya, Capri Hotel, Hotel Posada Mama,
Nestor's, Santa Cruz Lodge, Lagoon Campground. None
in Consejo.
New Key to Belize, by Stacy Ritz, 1996: Santa Cruz
Lodge, Tony's Inn, Hotel Maya. None in Consejo.
Belize Guide, (originally by Paul Glassman but
updated by Ron Charles), 1996: Adventure Inn
(now closed), Tony's, Posada Mama, Caribbean Motel
and Trailer Park (now called Caribbean Village),
Maya Hotel, Capri Hotel, Nestor's
Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry Pariser, 1995:
Capri, Nestor's, Hotel Maya, Caribbean Village,
Tony's, Hotel Posada Mama, Camino Real. None in
Consejo.
Adventuring in Belize, by Eric Hoffman, 1994:
Adventure Inn (now closed), Tony's, Hotel Maya
Adventuring in Central America, by David Rains
Wallace, 1995: None in Corozal Town or Consejo.
Berkeley Guides Central America, 1996: Capri Hotel,
Caribbean Motel (now called Caribbean Village),
Hotel Maya, Nestor's Hotel. None in Consejo.
Frommer's Costa Rica, Guatemala & Belize on $35 a
Day, by Karl Samson with Jane Aukshunas, 1995:
Caribbean Motel (now called Caribbean Village),
Nestor's, Hotel Maya, Tony's. None in Consejo.
BELIZE FIRST Recommendations: Tony's, Santa Cruz
Resort, Nestor's, Hotel Maya, Caribbean Village,
Hotel Posada Mama, Lagoon Campground. Casablanca in
Consejo.
##Lan Sluder is editor and publisher of Belize First
Magazine. He is a widely published travel writer
and author or co-author of several books including
Frommer's Best Beach Vacations: Carolinas and
Georgia, out from Macmillan in April 1996. Belize
First, ad-free and independent, is published
quarterly in traditional and Internet editions.
Back issues of Belize First (most in html text only)
are available at http://www.turq.com/belizefirst and
in the forum library here.##
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